The Galapagos go with you

Nov 21 2019

By Annelise

What is the draw to visit the Galapagos Islands? A smattering of islands that are ancient and impermanent. New islands being built volcanically while the oldest move slowly eastward tectonically, gradually erode and sink under their own weight and disappear. An ecology dependent on fresh winds and water currents from across the globe. It could be a euphemism for some many of today’s cultural and social topics

I could say for me the draw it is its very remoteness, the stark otherworldly volcanic landscapes of black rock contrasting with the intense blues of the water, being able to see directly how micro-environments of the different islands have shaped and influenced the adaptations of the creatures that have found home there, the opportunity to walk and swim among animals close enough to touch,

Genovesa island’s unbelievable amount of birds soaring overhead, nesting on the cliffs, ground and trees was a sight – Nazca Boobies, Red-footed Boobies, Great frigate birds, Red-billed tropic birds. Wind over the lava flats is punctuated with boobie mating calls and whistles and smells of guano. We watched our steps when walking the island trails to not only avoid stepping on iguanas and nesting birds but even sleeping sea lions. The later smell strongly of canned fish so you can smell them even if they are snoozing just around the corner.

On Floreana island, playful sealions splash around our kayaks while the Galapagos penguins nearly fly by fishing. We watched a flock of flamingo land on a small strand and let us paddle right to shore with them.  One would think this is an island paradise with that description, but the land is harsh and two of the first three settler groups succumbed to murder and intrigue more suited for the tales of pirates that had plied the shores and caves would tell.

Snorkeling reveals so many fish, some spotted eagle rays, recovering corals and many green sea turtles. You can see the planktons and krill that have been brought up from the Antarctic along the cold Humboldt current. At Kicker Rock I swam over and through a huge school of salema that was about 3 meters wide, 4 meters deep and 10 meters long completely filing a cleft in the rock. I am sure they were pleased I was a lumbering human and not a sea lion.

We walked among nearly all the Galapagos reptiles. The giant Galapagos land tortoises are awesome for their very Jurassic like nature. They are docile and shy though they hiss like Darth Vader as they recoil into their shells. As for iguanas we saw; yellow iguanas on Santa Fe, pale only to be found on Espanola island, one of the three (that is the absolute number) hybrid iguanas (a sterile cross between a yellow and marine iguana) on South Plaza island. The various subspecies of marine iguanas on each island from which you keep a bit of distance if you can since they squirt salt from their noses sporadically.  I’m not certain which adaptation I find most intriguing; the marine iguanas that will literally resorb their skeleton and become smaller in time of famine (el nino years) to reduce their food requirements, or that a giant land tortoise can live for nearly a year without water or food.

This week felt magical in that I was transported to such an otherworldly place. It was also made more special by the fabulous crew of our boat, our gracious and ever knowledgeable naturalist guide and the fact that we got to share to experience with my parents who have ventured to most of the world; but not to this particular spot.