Plowing through Peru

Nov 22 2019

By Haakon

Two weeks is not much to see a whole country like Peru but I have been able to see a lot of cool places and view different perspectives. For a week we stayed in Cuzco, the former capital city of the Incan empire. We went to a small farming town for a home stay and we have toured lots of ancient Incan sites.

We landed in Cusco mid-day, so we drove 6 miles in 40 minutes to our apartment (still not as bad a Seattle traffic) along the way I saw so many motorcycles with more than 3 people on them. I was wrong in thinking Peru would be warm because all the places I stayed at were 10,000 feet in elevation, so I had goose bumps. I also realized everyone here is wrapped in baby alpaca hats, sweaters, socks, and blankets. On the second day we actually found a sports bar that played the MLS Cup! The sounders beat Toronto for the second time in the MLS Cup while the Cusquenan team played for the national spot and all of Cusco celebrated with fireworks. A couple days later I celebrated my 13th birthday. The day got off to a frustrating start stuck in Khan Academy purgatory. Then the evening was way better with a reservation at Gaston Acurio’s restaurant, Chicha. I enjoyed a really good dinner of a trout ceviche, alpaca curry and this dark chocolate balloon filled with butterscotch and ice-cream.

The most interesting experience of the past weeks was staying at the farmers house, the reason why is because it put perspective on my life. When we first got to town, we were greeted by an elderly woman wearing a bright traditional dress, we were then taken to her small (but cozy) adobe brick house where she gave us some breakfast. The table for meals was next to the wood burning bread oven so they could stay warm when it got cold. For breakfast we had corn tamales, bread, and fava bean tea with baked corn to put into the tea to add flavor. We walked to our guides parents’ house, he gave us a hoe to work with, then he led us to the field, the field was around 10 acers full of corn. Our job was to turn the dirt so the corn could get more nutrients, I was told to take my shoes off and get working, so I did. I didn’t really realize how hard it was but after doing 35ft of lifting dirt while bent over I felt my back would snap; and the people in this town do this all day their whole life (barefoot with animal manure all over the ground). I don’t know how. When I was finished, I washed my feet by an animal trough before going to the next field for an hour’s work. The farmers drank this kombucha-like drink called chicha which my mom says taste like sour beer. After everyone had finished farming, we returned the hoes to the house, all the adults sat down and ate boiled fava beans and rubbery cheese (probably old milk) while Siri and I sat and watched. The oldest farmer was an 82-year- old man who has been farming everyday from 5am-5:30pm since he was 6 besides school.

Finally, the last part of our Peru visit we got to stay several nights in Ollantaytambo, the Inca site was the last stand of the Inca rebellion. We stayed at this place called The Inca king Hotel, a small place down the walking streets in the center of the old town with all sorts of plants growing on the wall and flowers popping out of every hallway. You can only get to Machu Picchu town by walking or by train from Olantaytambo. One morning, at 6 we got up and walked 12 blocks to the train station, the second we got there everyone was offering us random things like massages, water, backpacks, Peruvian hats, soda, etc. Eventually we found our way to the train where we got our ticket stamped and got on. The train ride was around an hour and a half to Machu Picchu along one of the largest tributary rivers of the Amazon. We got on to the bus to head 4 miles up steep hairpin turns to the top of the mountain where the ancient city lies. The view from the top of the mountain was amazing you could see the sunset, the cloud forest, and the ancient city. It really must have felt
like a city on top of the world.

The train ride back was crazy. First there was a traditional dance that involved masks and colorful dresses. Then there was a fashion show hosted by the train staff for alpaca wool clothing. Of course, halfway through that show, I had to go to the bathroom. Now, to get to the bathroom you had to walk past the crazy half of our train car. I got up and started to walk and all
the tippsy, or just very enthusiastic, people started cheering and clapping like I was part of the fashion show just because I was walking down the aisle. I had to show of my shirt like it was an item in the show. After going to the bathroom, I had to do the same and they were even more excited. In the end I made it to my seat alive and was able to enjoy the rest of the ride. That is my Perurail story.