Haakon Gaaserud
Well this week I am going to write about my first two days on a surfboard. I am starting off on a 10-foot board and it is really hard to turn on but is for learning balance more that turning. I am going to move on to turning tomorrow on a smaller board, hopefully. The waves are 5 feet tops when we ride them at low tide in Samara Bay. Our surf instructor at Pato’s surf school is good, his name is Elder and we have lessons with him once a week. Elder coaches the national adaptive Costa Rican surf team, which is cool. We get to surf for five days for free after each lesson so I will get to go surfing pretty much every day for five weeks – Pura Vida! I had fun this week learning Spanish, surfing, and soaking up the sun.
Haakon,
I love you writing your “wanderful blog”.
I love to think of you wandering each morning and checking
if the “surf is up”. If it is, take the time to catch the wave.
This is a lesson for life.
Like we say in Baja, when we wake up and there is no mushroom cloud
on the horizon, it is going to be a good day…
I love you,
Oma